From a parcel planted in 1902, the 2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode is performing superbly, exhibiting aromas of sweet red berries, petals, orange rind, licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, this charming, layered wine exudes a sense of effortlessness.

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, Indian spices, peonies and smoked duck, the 2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, its deep core of fruit framed by sweet tannins and lively acids, concluding with a violet-inflected finish.

For one of the more enthusiastically run Burgundy domaines, Bruno Clair's 1991s are a major disappointment. They lack color, concentration, and richness, and are dominated by excessively high tannins that make all these wines, save for the soft, light-bodied 1991 Marsannay-Les Longeroies, hollow, harsh, tough, and devoid of charm and finesse. One can only speculate on how the 1991 harvest was handled by Bruno Clair, but he is far more talented and conscientious than these wines suggest. Even allowing for the fact that they may have been tasted at an ungraceful period of development, their light ruby colors and the severity of their tannins are unfortunate. Importer: Hand Picked Selections, Dan Kravitz, Warrenton, VA.

One of the specialties of this house is its Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Dominaudes from extremely old vines. It is always the deepest colored wine in the Clair portfolio and the 1988 is no exception. It exhibits a black/ruby color, an intense, exotic, spicy, tar and black fruit-scented bouquet, rich, full-bodied flavors, plenty of tannin, and great length. It is a wine that should not be approached for 3-4 years, and should drink well for up to 15 years.

Clair's Savigny Les Beaune Dominaudes, made from extremely old vines, is always a success, but prospective purchasers should know that this is Clair's slowest maturing wine. It has a deep, rich color, plenty of tannins, medium to full body, and excellent depth and richness. Patience is definitely required.