A tank-aged blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, the 2017 Rasteau Cuvee Paul Emile shows considerably more structure and complexity than the basic Rasteau. Notes of cinnamon, clove, asphalt and cola all appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is richly textured, finishing with a bright, zesty edge.

Still in barrel, the blockbuster 2013 Rasteau Cuvee Paul-Emile should check in near the top of the vintage. Comprised of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre that was destemmed and aged in foudre, its inky purple color is followed by a ripe, decadent array of smoked black fruits, chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Full-bodied, concentrated and with sweet tannin, it will have a decade or more of longevity.

A step up and with beautiful concentration in the vintage, the 2011 Rasteau Paul-Emile (a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, from the estates oldest vines, that’s aged in foudre and barrel) dishes up plenty of chocolate-laced dark fruits, mineral and smoked herbs to go with medium to full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. Showing bright acidity, clean, pure aromas and flavors, and fine tannin on the finish, it’s an outstanding wine and will evolve gracefully for 8-10 years. These are three solid efforts by proprietor Marie-France Masson. Importer: Milton Road Trading Co. LLC, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 290-3000

This classic Rasteau exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of kirsch liqueur, white chocolate and spice. Unctuously textured with sweet tannin and low acidity, this plump, corpulent 2009 should drink nicely for 7-8 years. Importer: Milton Road Trading Co. LLC, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 290-3000

The 2007 Rasteau Cuvee Paul Emile has the most saturated ruby/purple color of the three. A thick, juicy style that is at the same time more backward and less open than the other two wines, it is full-bodied, powerful, rich, and will benefit from another year or two of bottle age and evolve nicely for 8-10 years. These are all very impressive wines from Rasteau from a very good domaine. Importer: Milton Road Trading Company, LLC, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 290-3000; fax (310) 943-2429