An impressive Chard and an impressive value, the Begude is light, with an elegant, mineral-citrus-soy palate. Out of the bottle, it shows clean, bright lemon-citrus flavors on the nose; after a few minutes in the glass, the bouquet takes on peach, earth and soy notes. In the mouth and on the finish, it manages to be at once smooth and minerally textured. Buy a case now. Best Buy. ——D.T.(2/1/2002)—— 88