The 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, raised in one-third new oak, has a tightly-wound bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass, reluctantly offering brambly red berry fruit, citrus lemon and overripe Clementine. The palate is crisp and linear, vivacious tart cherry fruit infused with sour lemon, focused though without the depth of the 2012. But it feels persistent on the finish that leaves the tongue tingling with Szechuan pepper. Very fine.

The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru will see 33% new oak and again comes from contracted fruit. It has an attractive, quite intense bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit: wild strawberry, raspberry and cranberry to the fore. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It is fleshy and refined with well-judged acidity and a crisp, focused, elegant finish that expresses the terroir with some panache. Burguet Bros. – Jean-Luc and Eric – have been managing this domaine since their father Alain retired a couple of years ago, although Burguet pere actually took a back office role in 2000. They source fruit from around 8 hectares of vines, exclusively Pinot Noir. Some of their cuvees come from contracted growers on the condition that they are granted free rein to pick upon their choosing. Others come courtesy of the family’s own vines. Thereafter, their principles are founded upon strict sorting three times: first via the eagle-eyed picker, then on the first sorting table prior to de-stemming and then berry-by-berry with six to eight women working a second table de trie. Only wild yeasts are used to start the fermentation with minimal use of sulfur. The wine is usually transferred into barrel as soon as possible after pressing. The wines see a prudent use of new oak during maturation, although they seem keen to keep it as low as possible, with only one racking before bottling by gravity and without filtration. This address is a source of respectable, commendable wines. Sure I found nothing spectacular here in 2012, but I certainly appreciated their consistency and charm. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2010 Chambertin-Clos de Beze shows plenty of muscle in its dark red fruit, minerals, mint and licorice. The Beze is naturally very tightly wound, but there is more than enough depth and density to think it will be marvelous over time. The tension and energy of the finish are fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Alain Burguet has decided to retire, so his sons Eric and Jean-Luc are now in charge, although their influence has been felt in the wines for at least a few vintages, most visibly in the reduction of new oak. Otherwise, Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet told me they plan to keep things pretty much as they have been for some time, which means farming without pesticides and bottling with no fining or filtration. Yields in 2010 are down about 45% from 2009, including one full hectare that was lost to the December frost, an enormity for an estate with 6.5 hectares of vineyards. Unfortunately, the 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux was too reduced to evaluate. The Vosne-Romanee Les Rouges du Dessus and Chambertin-Clos de Beze are both made from purchased fruit. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700, AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze bursts onto the palate with a heady array of black cherries, plums, graphite, mint, licorice and exotic spices. The fruit boasts tons of richness and depth from start to finish. This is a seriously intense Beze that will require considerable patience. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. Burguet is one of the few domaines I visited where the overall level of the 2009s appears to be higher than the 2010s. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700, AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640