Made with organically farmed fruit, the 2015 Primitivo is an evolved expression of what is a very plump and juicy grape in its youth. This particular example from Amastuola lacks that fleshy softness and sweetness. What it delivers instead is dried fruit and a touch of dried apple skin—it has lost its proverbial baby fat. That said, it is refreshing to encounter one of the very rare mid-weight Primitivos out there, and with a comparatively moderate alcohol content, too, at 14%. You might try a tagliatelle with a calf liver sauce for this one. An ample 120,000 bottles were made.

The 2014 Primitivo is a more subdued, entry level wine from Amastuola. You get plenty of Primitivo intensity with chewy dark blackberry fruit and dried cherry. The wine is fermented in conical oak casks and is later set aside to age in large casks for an additional six months. It exudes darkness and richness, yet the finish is simple and short in terms of length.