Yves Boyer-Martenot Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, France

博伊爾-馬蒂露酒莊凱樂瑞園（普里尼-蒙哈榭一級園）白葡萄酒

Aromas of crisp stone fruit, orange oil, freshly baked bread, white flowers and fresh mint introduce the 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy wine built around a racy spine of acidity. This will reward a bit of bottle age.

Another success is the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret, an attractive wine that offers up notions of citrus oil, nutmeg and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and structured, with fine depth at the core and chalky dry extract, this is a highlight this year.

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru le Cailleret has a very composed and elegant bouquet with attractive aromas of hazelnut and white chocolate accompanied by minerals. This is very pretty. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, almost Meursault-like in style thanks to its walnut and hazelnut notes, the finish nicely structured with a persistent spicy aftertaste. This might well become the best white from Boyer-Martenot this year.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets is very reticent on the nose at the moment: backward and broody. The palate is clean and fresh with crisp acidity: light citrus peel and Granny Smith apple notes toward the second half, but resolutely linear and refusing to fan out on the finish. Give it three or four years to lose its inhibitions.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret, which used to be a monopole of Jean Charton until the early 1990s, has a neat, quite conservative, flinty bouquet. The palate is crisp on the entry with plenty of spicy, quite exotic fruit that lends this Puligny impressive weight and persistency in the mouth. There is a touch of honey and marmalade toward the finish that is long and satisfying. This is a regal Puligny deserving two or three years in bottle. Drink 2015-2028. It was my first time visiting this domaine and young winemaker Vincent Boyer. Their winery is situated in the lower reaches of the hilly Meursault village. Their set up is one whereby tourists are welcomed to visit the cellars and purchase bottles directly. That is often interpreted as a sign of more commercial wines for less discerning tourists, after all, you never see Aubert de Villaine beckoning visitors inside. Do not make that mistake here. I was impressed by both the estate’s enviable portfolio of holdings scattered over 10 hectares in Meursault, Puligny, Auxey-Duresses and Pommard, and Vincent’s assiduous approach to winemaking. If anything, his 2012 whites are so vibrant and surfeit with minerality that it exaggerated what I found lacking in the small number his reds, even if they are peripheral within Yves’ portfolio. The holdings were accumulated by Vincent’s ancestors on both his paternal and maternal lineages, hence the hyphenated name. It was the marriage of Andre Boyer to Juliette Deveze that linked Meursault with Puligny respectively. Then their son Yves was married to Marie Cecile Martenot in 1976. Between 1997 and 2007 the domaine has discretely acquired further holdings. Yves has a simple approach to winemaking. He uses new oak thoughtfully, so that it is embedded and frequently barely noticeable within his wines, thereby allowing the terroir to be articulated. He bottles relatively early. His 2012 whites had all been bottled when I tasted them in October, 2013, though Vincent expressed a desire to extend the barrel aging if space permits. Then again, judging by the performance of these wines, I am not totally convinced that is entirely necessary. Vincent Boyer’s premier crus are all matured in a judicious one-third new oak. The reds are not exported to the United States. Importer: Michael Skurnik, Peter Vezan.