The least expressive of the single vineyard offerings is the 2005 Syrah Great Oaks Vineyard. A monolithic Syrah, it exhibits an inky/purple color, impressive weight and richness, but little nuance or subtlety. Moreover, the flavors are one-dimensional compared to the other single vineyard cuvees. Perhaps I just caught it during a closed period as it certainly possesses good potential. It’s hard to know. These are all blockbuster-flavored and sized wines, so be forewarned if you are looking for more restrained, delicate reds. There are seven separate Syrah offerings, six of which emerge from some of Santa Barbara’s finest vineyards. Tel. (805) 691-1020; Fax (805) 691-1018

The most uncomplicated cuvee here is the dense ruby/purple-hued 2003 Syrah Great Oaks Vineyard. Soft and pliable, it is best consumed over the next 4-5 years. It is only marginally better than their generic Santa Barbara bottling. Tel. (805) 691-1020

The opaque purple-colored, pedal-to-the-metal-styled 2002 Syrah Great Oaks Vineyard boasts a big, rich perfume of melted licorice, charcoal, and blackberry liqueur, a viscous, chewy texture, huge body, and admirable ripeness. This lavishly opulent, low acid, in-your-face Syrah is a highly extracted yet surprisingly well-balanced, All-American red to drink over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 691-1020

This is a young, immature Syrah you’ll want to have with something big and rich, to help tame the somewhat woody-tasting tannins. Berry, coffee and vanilla flavors are mouthfilling and intense, but will they measure up to the tannins in the long run? ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 86

Displaying firm tannin as well as an exuberant, in-your-face personality is the 2001 Syrah Great Oaks Vineyard. It offers sweet, jammy fruit, plenty of toasty oak, a firm structure, and noticeable tannin in the finish. Made in a more austere style than its siblings, it will benefit from 1-2 more years of cellaring. Consume it over the following decade. This is an exuberant, crowd-pleasing, full-throttle offering that scores high on the hedonism scale. It may be less successful in terms of pure expressions of terroir or refinement. Tel. (805) 691-1020