The opaque purple-colored, pedal-to-the-metal-styled 2002 Syrah Great Oaks Vineyard boasts a big, rich perfume of melted licorice, charcoal, and blackberry liqueur, a viscous, chewy texture, huge body, and admirable ripeness. This lavishly opulent, low acid, in-your-face Syrah is a highly extracted yet surprisingly well-balanced, All-American red to drink over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 691-1020

This is a young, immature Syrah you’ll want to have with something big and rich, to help tame the somewhat woody-tasting tannins. Berry, coffee and vanilla flavors are mouthfilling and intense, but will they measure up to the tannins in the long run? ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 86