Revealing aromas of buttered apples and caramelized citrus, the 2016 Chardonnay is a rich, fat wine that's clean and flavorful but somewhat corpulent, adapted to near-term consumption. To its credit, it's very modestly priced.

The 2014 Chardonnay from Columbia Winery incorporates 5% Pinot Gris, 2% Viognier and 2% other white varieties, all of which were fermented in stainless steel and saw plenty of lees contact. Its medium gold color is followed by a charming, medium-bodied, forward Chardonnay that gives up plenty of honeyed fruits, brioche and vanilla. It’s best drunk up.

The 2012 Chardonnay is made in a rich, toasty style with tropical fruits and hints of vanilla giving way to a medium-bodied, nicely textured and fresh feel on the palate. Staying classy and balanced, it’s a superb value to enjoy over the coming couple of years. Tel. (425) 488-2776; www.columbiawinery.com

There’s some bitterness along the edges of this wine; the tart, light fruit flavors are outlined in bitter phenolics that detract from the overall mouthfeel. Green apple and plenty of acid is the story here.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 83