The 2006 Cuvee Nicolas Francois Aubry Sable Rose is a huge wine endowed with considerable richness in its deep red fruit. Mint, flowers and spices are some of the notes that develop in the glass, adding further character and personality. The 2006 is eccentric, mysterious and totally compelling. The long, sensual finish leaves a lasting impression. The blend is 20% Arbanne, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir and Meunier co-pressed with 10% Meunier still red wine. Disgorged January 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Aubry is one of the most intriguing producers in Champagne because the wines are so expressive. Maybe it is the inclusion of Champagne’s ancient varieties in some of these blends, or the low atmosphere style of some of the wines, or maybe it’s just the personality of the Aubry brothers themselves, but I always find so many admirable qualities in these wines.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The estate’s 2005 Brut Rose Sable Premier Cru Nicolas Francois Aubry is too young to fully appreciate. It is a decidedly more ethereal wine than powerful NV. Everything is about subtlety, as layers of perfumed silky mirabelle plums, cherries, flowers and chalk spin out effortlessly from a long, exceptionally polished frame. This is a somewhat fleeting, beguiling Champagne of breathtaking beauty. The blend consists of 20% Chardonnay (fermented in oak), 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne, plus Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and is done in the house’s low atmosphere style. This is Lot LSRM. Disgorged January, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Aubry doesn’t seem to get much attention in hard-core Champagne circles, but make no mistake about it; these are some of the most unique wines being made in the region today. It is hard to go wrong with any of these fine new releases. Readers should note that the Sable Le Nombre d’Or wines are bottled with a liqueur de tirage that contains about 16 grams of sugar, instead of the more customary 24 or so, which results in a lower pressure Champagne. The lower pressure style yields wines with very fine and small bubbles, not to mention tons of class.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2004 Brut Rose Sable Nicolas Francois Aubry is a highly unusual, compelling wine. This copper-hued rose offers up an array of dried flowers, dried apricots, autumn leaves on a crisp day and sweet baking spices in an exotic, singular expression that is hard to describe. The overall impression is of slight (but not at all unpleasant) oxidation. The Nicolas Francois Aubry is a cuvee of 60% Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir vinified saignee-style, with 40% Chardonnay. The Meunier vines are 60+ years old and are believed to carry a diseased clone which yields berries with a high skin-to-juice ratio. This is another of the Aubry wines made in the low-pressure approach. Disgorged: August, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.I was deeply impressed with these wines from Aubry. To be sure, these are not the most immediate Champagnes readers will come across; rather they require a measure of time and patience. For those who are ready to experience something new and different, an array of compelling Champagnes awaits. Aubry farms 17 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedomange. The estate’s Sable series are wines made in the lower-atmosphere style and that feature Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Arbanne, ancient varieties in these parts that today are nearly forgotten. Simply put, this is one of the most impressive ranges I tasted this year, and the wines are highly recommended.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300