The 2004 Brut Rose Sable Nicolas Francois Aubry is a highly unusual, compelling wine. This copper-hued rose offers up an array of dried flowers, dried apricots, autumn leaves on a crisp day and sweet baking spices in an exotic, singular expression that is hard to describe. The overall impression is of slight (but not at all unpleasant) oxidation. The Nicolas Francois Aubry is a cuvee of 60% Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir vinified saignee-style, with 40% Chardonnay. The Meunier vines are 60+ years old and are believed to carry a diseased clone which yields berries with a high skin-to-juice ratio. This is another of the Aubry wines made in the low-pressure approach. Disgorged: August, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.I was deeply impressed with these wines from Aubry. To be sure, these are not the most immediate Champagnes readers will come across; rather they require a measure of time and patience. For those who are ready to experience something new and different, an array of compelling Champagnes awaits. Aubry farms 17 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedomange. The estate’s Sable series are wines made in the lower-atmosphere style and that feature Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Arbanne, ancient varieties in these parts that today are nearly forgotten. Simply put, this is one of the most impressive ranges I tasted this year, and the wines are highly recommended.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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