A blend of 35% Mazuelo, 35% Syrah and 30% Garnacha the 2009 Mas de Can Blau has a lifted nose of blueberry cheesecake, black olives and a touch of licorice, with nicely integrated oak that is a little pinched at first. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity and plenty of ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit. It seems tauter and more poised than some of Gil Family Estate's other wines and should drink nicely over 2 or 3 years. Drink now-2016. The trio of wines from Cellars Can Blau in Montsant paradoxically seemed to curry less favor the more expensive they become, especially when you factor in their prices. While the entry-level Blau represents outstanding value, with delicious, sappy red fruit flavors, both the Can Blau and Mas de Can Blau seemed labored by comparison. After tasting these wines, I served all three blind to a group of wine-lovers and asked which one they preferred. They all selected the Blau and indeed ranked them in reverse order of price! Importer: Gil Family Estates, Jumilla, Spain, with various importers/distributors.

The 2007 Mas de Can Blau is a similar blend aged for 20 months in new French oak and bottled without filtration. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it sports a brooding nose of slate/mineral, pain grille, incense, underbrush, plum, and black cherry. Opulent, full-flavored, and powerful on the palate, this savory, concentrated effort will benefit from 2-3 years of additional cellaring and offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2022. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2006 Mas de Can Blau is a blend of Carinena, Syrah, and Garnacha. The wine was aged for 20 months in new French oak before bottling without filtration. Dark crimson-colored, it offers up an alluring nose of balsam wood, pencil lead, rose petals, cherry, and black raspberry. Suave and elegant on the palate, it has superb depth and richness, savory flavors, and a silky finish. It will benefit from another 1-2 years of cellaring and drink well through 2018. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2005 Mas de Can Blau is a blend of 35% Carinena, 35% Syrah, and 30% Garnacha with the Garnacha and Carinena ranging in age from 65-85 years. Malolactic fermentation occurred in barrel and the wine was aged in new French oak for 20 months before being bottled unfiltered. Purple-colored, it reveals a complex, sophisticated perfume of toast, slate, smoke, espresso, black cherry, and blueberry. This leads to a wine with a full-bodied personality, layers of flavor, gobs of fruit, and a pure, lengthy finish. It will be at its best between 2013 and 2025. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2004 Mas de Can Blau, the first vintage of this cuvee, comes from the estate’s oldest Carinena, Garnacha, and Syrah vines. It received malolactic fermentation in barrel, was aged for 20 months in new French oak, and bottled unfiltered. Dark ruby/purple-colored, it offers a flamboyant nose of pain grille, scorched earth, tar, and kirsch. Full-bodied with a supple texture, the wine has layers of sweet fruit, nicely integrated oak, tannin, and acidity, in its racy personality. Drink this outgoing wine over the next 8-10 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767