The 2012 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard (100% Mourvedre) reveals lots of peppery, dusty soil notes intermixed with underbrush, black raspberries and black currants. Surprisingly elegant and velvety (unusual for a Mourvedre), it should drink nicely for 4-5 years. Carlisle Winery’s Mike Officer and his wife are one of the wonderful stories in the wine world. Going from a part-time home winemaker, to turning out some of his beloved Zinfandels, to becoming one of the two or three leading guardians of old vine Zinfandel in Northern California, Mike Officer was so good at making wine that he changed careers and wine consumers are the beneficiaries. The single vineyard Zins are absolutely remarkable. Everyone who loves Zinfandel should be on Carlisle’s mailing list, the wines are primarily available only from the winery. Sadly, Mike Officer is not making as much Syrah as he used to given the difficult marketplace for this varietal. That’s a shame, as great Syrahs are truly magnificent wines. Tel. (707) 566-7700

Black cherries, plums, savory herbs, licorice, tobacco and wild flowers literally jump from the glass in the 2010 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard. The more virile imposing side of Mourvedre comes through loud and clear in this deeply resonant, imposing wine. There is a lot to admire here. Olives, black pepper, ash, incense and earthiness are layered into the finish. This is a terrific showing from Carlisle and Mike Officer. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

The 2010 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard, from a warmer microclimate than the Two Acres, reveals a dark profile of cherries, plums, mint, white flowers and graphite. The energy and vibrancy of the year comes through in spades. This site was planted in 1888. Mike Officer used 25% whole clusters and aged the wine in French oak barrels, 20% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a fabulous set of wines from Mike Officer and Carlisle. Best of all, the wines remain very reasonably priced considering the quality and passion that goes into the bottle. Along with Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, Mike Officer is focused on seeking out the finest old-vine sites in California, which have either been neglected over the years, or are being bought by large-scale wineries who have little interest in discovering the quirks of these very old vineyards, most of which are planted with field blends that truly harken back to another era. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in French oak barrels, usually in the 20-30% range. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel the day before they were scheduled to be moved into tank.Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com

The 2009 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard (100% Mourvedre with 15.4% alcohol) exhibits that varietal's floral, blueberry and porcini mushroom-like characteristics as well as full-bodied power, impressive ripeness and sweet tannin. Mourvedre is a difficult varietal, but this effort is ripe with silky tannins rather than vegetal with tea-tasting fruit and excessively astringent tannin. Given the anti-oxidative characteristics of Mourvedre, this 2009 should drink well for 10-15+ years. It is amazing to think that fifteen years ago no one had ever heard of Carlisle Winery and Vineyards or Mike Officer. Moreover, what Officer has done to preserve old vine Zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma is nothing short of astonishing. Add to that success story his sensational line-up of Syrahs, Petite Sirahs and Rhone Ranger blends and it is undeniable that this man and his winery are at the top of their game. These are artisanal, world-class reds that remain among California's most fairly priced high quality wines. Following is a look at the 2008s from bottle as well as a preview of the charming, seductive 2009s. Mike Officer says 2009 is a strong year for his wines, but since he has done nearly everything right, it is hard for me to say his 2009s are better than previous vintages. Certainly he will not have much production in 2010 given all the issues Zinfandel vineyards had in that year. Readers who love these wines are advised to stock up on what is left of the 2008s as well as the upcoming 2009s. Tel. (707) 566-7700; Fax (707) 566-7200