Black cherries, plums, savory herbs, licorice, tobacco and wild flowers literally jump from the glass in the 2010 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard. The more virile imposing side of Mourvedre comes through loud and clear in this deeply resonant, imposing wine. There is a lot to admire here. Olives, black pepper, ash, incense and earthiness are layered into the finish. This is a terrific showing from Carlisle and Mike Officer. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

The 2010 Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard, from a warmer microclimate than the Two Acres, reveals a dark profile of cherries, plums, mint, white flowers and graphite. The energy and vibrancy of the year comes through in spades. This site was planted in 1888. Mike Officer used 25% whole clusters and aged the wine in French oak barrels, 20% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a fabulous set of wines from Mike Officer and Carlisle. Best of all, the wines remain very reasonably priced considering the quality and passion that goes into the bottle. Along with Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, Mike Officer is focused on seeking out the finest old-vine sites in California, which have either been neglected over the years, or are being bought by large-scale wineries who have little interest in discovering the quirks of these very old vineyards, most of which are planted with field blends that truly harken back to another era. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in French oak barrels, usually in the 20-30% range. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel the day before they were scheduled to be moved into tank.Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com