A more compact personality emerges from the 2011 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley. Iron, red berries, smoke and tobacco all make an appearance, but it is the wine’s energy and thrust that speak loudest. It will be interesting to see if the 2011 fattens up in bottle. Today, it is a bit on the lean side, despite its considerable appeal. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California.Tel. (707) 566-7700

Primarily from the Teldeschi Ranch Vineyard (planted in 1885), the 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek includes some Petite Sirah and Carignane in the blend. The elegantly-styled 2007 reveals a Burgundian-like, complex bouquet of flowers, red and black fruits, sweet forest floor, and a hint of spice. Medium to full-bodied, pure, and lively, it should drink nicely for 4-5 years. Mike Officer is quickly rising to the top of the qualitative pyramid when it comes to Zinfandel, and, more recently, Petite Sirah and Syrah. Working from old vine Zinfandel vineyards in Dry Creek, Sonoma, and Russian River, he is giving some of Napa’s top-notch Zinfandel producers, such as Biale and Turley, a run for their money. Starting as a home winemaker in 1998, Officer is now zeroing in on a 5,000 case production of wines that are poster children for hedonism and exuberant joy. Carlisle’s 2007s reveal that vintage’s luscious fruit. Syrah should be selling better in the marketplace than it does. Perhaps consumers are confused by the ocean of cheap Shiraz from Australia, and fail to recognize how much quality California Syrah offers. Carlisle’s Syrahs are all noteworthy efforts. Brilliant winemaking, a highly committed proprietor, and extraordinarily fair prices make Carlisle a no-brainer for wine consumers looking for fun.Tel. (707) 566-7700; Fax (707) 566-7200

The 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek has turned out even better than I expected. Copious quantities of sweet earth, black raspberries, and sweet cherries, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and a silky, lush texture make for a prodigious Zinfandel to enjoy over the next 4-5 years. Mike Officer is quickly rising to the top of the qualitative pyramid when it comes to Zinfandel, and, more recently, Petite Sirah and Syrah. Working from old vine Zinfandel vineyards in Dry Creek, Sonoma, and Russian River, he is giving some of Napa’s top-notch Zinfandel producers, such as Biale and Turley, a run for their money. Starting as a home winemaker in 1998, Officer is now zeroing in on a 5,000 case production of wines that are poster children for hedonism and exuberant joy. Carlisle’s 2007s reveal that vintage’s luscious fruit. Syrah should be selling better in the marketplace than it does. Perhaps consumers are confused by the ocean of cheap Shiraz from Australia, and fail to recognize how much quality California Syrah offers. Carlisle’s Syrahs are all noteworthy efforts. Brilliant winemaking, a highly committed proprietor, and extraordinarily fair prices make Carlisle a no-brainer for wine consumers looking for fun.Tel. (707) 566-7700; Fax (707) 566-7200

The last of Mike Officer’s 2005 Zinfandels to be released include the 2005 Zinfandel Dry Creek, which displays a deep ruby/purple color and a nice raspberry/kirsch/peppery nose, with some steely earthiness in the excellent texture. This wine is an undeniable success in this challenging vintage. Even better are the following four Zinfandels, which are among the finest Zinfandels of the vintage and reflect super sites as well as impeccably high standards of winemaking. Previously recommended: 2004 Syrah Judge Family Vineyard (95), 2004 Syrah Pelkan Ranch (90), 2004 Three Birds (93), 2004 Two Acres (93), 2004 Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard (93), 2004 Zinfandel Carlo’s Ranch (91), 2004 Zinfandel Fava Ranch (91), 2004 Zinfandel Rossi Ranch (92), 2004 Zinfandel Tom Feeney Ranch (94).Tel. (707) 566-7700; Fax (707) 566-7200