The 2003 Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio (in a 500-milliliter bottle) has sharper lines and more definition with some dusty aromas of tar and campfire ash. The bouquet moves toward resin and caramelized brown sugar. The finish is dry, and you can make out the freshness of the acidity despite all those fortified aromas. This is a pure expression of the Grillo grape that undergoes a more streamlined fortification process without the mistella or the mosto cotto. The wine ages in 300-liter caratelli barrels for ten years, thus earning its Marsala Vergine distinction. The alcohol measures 19%, and only 7,000 bottles were made.

The 2000 Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio (500-mililiter) will appeal to those who are nostalgic for the authentic flavors of this unique category of fortified wine from the southern Sicilian port city of Marsala. This expression shows lower residual sugar, but the alcohol is very high at 19%. The bouquet offers candied fruit, caramel, pine nut and resin. Given the wine's 15 years of barrel and bottle age, any primary fruit nuances have been tucked in at the back and don't show against the powerful alcohol. This wine will hold for many decades.

The 1998 Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio (500ml) exhibits a dark amber color with loads of caramel, toasted chestnut, pine nut and candied fruit. Pure essence of sweet caramel wraps thickly over the palate. This Marsala shows bold consistency and a sweet, polished mouthfeel. It's difficult to assign a drinking window to a wine as virtually indestructible as this.