The Cantele 2015 Amativo is a hearty blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro, showcasing a geographically widespread selection of grapes from the slightly northern Puglia province of Brindisi to the southern reaches of Lecce. The wine struts its stuff in this hot vintage with ripe tones of blackberry preserves, figs and dark prunes. The mouthfeel is rich in extract and concentration, but the structure is soft and without much tannic bite. This is a good choice for a hearty meat dinner with barbecue spice and mesquite. The wine ages in mostly French oak with a small 15% of American oak. Some 34,000 bottles were made.

The 2014 Amativo is an IGT Puglia blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro. This is a noticeably modern and oak-driven wine that opens to dark red fruit followed by evident tones of toasted nut, cinnamon and sweet vanilla bean. The wine shows luscious, soft tannins on the close. My feeling is that the weak vintage has taken away some of the grit and natural power needed to contrast that oak spice.

The 2012 Amativo is an IGT Salento blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro from the "heel of the boot" of Italy. The wine is aged in oak for one year (90% French oak and 10% American oak) and displays a dark, impenetrable consistency with aromas of dark fruit, leather, tobacco and spice. Amativo shows great textural richness with soft tannins and a long, opulent mouthfeel. This mighty Puglian red should continue its evolution for another five years.

The 2007 Amativo is 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro that spent 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new. A well-delineated, articulate bouquet leads to racy dark fruit, sweet spices and herbs, all of which are framed by soft, supple tannins. The wine’s sense of inner balance carries through to the harmonious finish. This is a superb effort from Cantele. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Cantele’s 2006 Amativo (Negroamaro, Primitivo) features the aromatic profile of Negroamaro wedded to the intensity of fruit typical of Primitivo. Sweet herbs, roasted coffee beans, licorice, leather and spices are just some of the nuances that emerge from this delicious, sumptuous and highly pleasing red. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Readers who want to discover the unique qualities of Puglia’s indigenous varieties will find much to admire in this set of wines. The entry-level bottlings in particular deliver incredible quality for the money. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200