Licorice, black cherry, leather, violets, and tamarind scent the Camille Giroud 2006 Volnay Taillepieds, which then comes to the palate firm, bitter-sweet, and mouth-filling. Between the tannins and the suggestion of underlying chalkiness this makes for a rather somber display, but it is impressively strong in the finish, and I suspect it will be worth following for at least half a dozen years. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70