The Bruno Giacosa 2016 Barolo Falletto (white label) brings us another extraordinary expression from a classic vintage. Serralunga d'Alba fruit is full, generous and thickly layered in a manner that you always hope to encounter when lucky enough to drink pedigree Nebbiolo. There is enormous density here and power and grace; however, the Barolo Falletto is seemingly weightless and ever so delicate as it warms smoothly over the senses. Crisp cherry and blackberry are followed by delicate tones of crushed stone and iron ore. Bright tones of grilled herb and blue flower lift gently from the bouquet and add to the balanced intensity of this collectors' vintage.

This wine was made in 2011 and 2012 but not in 2013. The 2014 Barolo Falletto (white label) is fascinating to taste right after the Barbaresco Riserva Asili from the same vintage. There is no doubting the extra muscle mass and power that is obtained in the Barolo appellation, and from the Serralunga d’Alba township specifically. This dramatic Barolo delivers darkness and density. It shows a beautiful appearance with faint highlights of dark ruby that add a subtle sparkle. At this point in its drinking cycle, the wine shows all the characteristic traits of its youth. This means it is more closed and rigid at present. That nervous tightness needs to be factored in when assessing the cellar longevity of this vintage. Hints of the wine’s inner complexity, sheer determination and textural fortitude are already bubbling up from deep inside this firmly layered Nebbiolo. I wanted to mention the tightness of the tannins now. These will undoubtedly serve to carry this wine forward over the coming decades.

The 2012 Barolo Falletto is a bit timid to open and needs extra time in the glass (especially when tasted this young). This wine was bottled in March. The wine already shows impressive complexity and depth with drying mineral notes that frame a pretty core of cherry and blackberry fruit. Background notes of light spice and grilled herb complete this pretty picture. What stands out most here, however, is the tight textural fabric of this wine. It is poised for very good aging potential.

The 2011 Barolo Falletto is a beautifully balanced and determined wine. It spends 30 months in oak and this warm vintage is already showing a quick bottle evolution. This was an early vintage: Fruit was harvested on September 23, which is ten days before average. It shows soft, luscious lines and ripe fruit favors that are both generous and opulent. Yet, there is a healthy crunchiness and crackle in the mouth that makes for a long aging future ahead. Barolo Falletto closes with pretty aromas of dark fruit, spice and shaved truffle.

The 2009 Barolo Falletto is an exuberant and exciting wine with tight, firming tannins surrounded by deep layers of dried cherry, licorice, cassis, moist tobacco and campfire ash. What sets this Barolo apart is the focus and care it shows on the bouquet. It is as if each layer is a separately audible voice in a united chorus of flavors and aromas. Also notable is the balanced acidity that adds a bite of freshness without being too sharp. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. With the return of winemaker Dante Scaglione in 2011, the wines of Bruno Giacosa (-the genius of Neive-) continue to impress. Bruna Giacosa, Bruno-s daughter, has taken over daily operations at the winery since her father suffered a stroke in 2006. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700