One of the classic Barolos of the twentieth century is Bruno Giacosa's 1978 Barolo Rionda di Serralunga. An infant in terms of development, even after having been aerated for a half day, it was reluctant to reveal all of its potential. The color is a healthy dark garnet with light amber at the edge. The earthy nose offers aromas of black fruits, underbrush, white truffles, tobacco, smoke, and sweet black cherry and plum-like fruit. Thick, tannic, muscular, and superbly concentrated, this mammoth wine requires another 5-10 years of cellaring. It should open by 2008-2010, and last for the following 20-30 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620