Dark, rich, and ultraripe yet balanced, this wine has plenty of charm. You can taste the warm California sunshine in each ripe sip. All kinds of wild berry and dark stone-fruit flavors mingle with spices and herbs, with a smoky, oaky overlay. Not great wine, but completely satisfying, and one that most will find lip-smackingly delicious.——S.H.(11/15/2000)—— 89