The 2000 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles has toasted mineral aromas and a well-focused, medium-bodied personality. This wine has excellent grip, richness, and amplitude. Lemony minerals permeate this delineated offering's flavor profile as well as its long, pure finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

The excellent 1998 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles has an expressive mineral and chalk-laden nose. Pears, apples, and gravel can be found in its concentrated, rich, and opulent character. It is a forward, verging on mature wine that will require early drinking. Projected maturity: now-2003. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.

Over 75% of Bouchard's Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles is sold in the United States. The 1997 displays a fresh, candied orange-infused nose. It is a medium-to-full-bodied, chlorophyl, white flower, and toasted mineral-flavored wine with excellent focus and richness. This silky-textured and well-crafted wine is harmonious, forward, and simply delicious, yet lacks some persistence and complexity. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.