The excellent 1998 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles has an expressive mineral and chalk-laden nose. Pears, apples, and gravel can be found in its concentrated, rich, and opulent character. It is a forward, verging on mature wine that will require early drinking. Projected maturity: now-2003. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.