The 2009 Altamimbre is from 45-year-old vines aged for 24 months in new French oak. The nose speaks only of the cooperage rather than the terroir while it subdues the fruit on the palate, especially on the dry finish. Drink now. Importer: no known US importer.

The 2005 Altamimbre Reserva exhibits an aromatic array of balsam wood, smoke, tobacco, pencil lead, blackberry, and black cherry. On the palate it is brighter, more forward, and more complex than the Carramimbre Reserva. It will benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring and its drinking window should extend from 2013 to 2025. Founded in 1997, Bodegas Pingon has 25 hectares of vineyard, much of it old vines. Importer: Steven Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 838-1963

Pingon’s flagship offering, the 2001 Altamimbre, is fashioned from older vines, and spends nearly two years in wood before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Big, sweet vanillin/toasty notes intermingled with black cherry jam, licorice, and incense are followed by a medium-bodied, elegant, nicely-structured Spanish red boasting excellent depth as well as purity. It should drink well for 5-6 years. Importer: Steven Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 329-3180