The 2012 Syrah is produced in a very similar fashion as the Garnacha, but the grapes are only partially destemmed. The fermentation was carried out in open lagars with some foot treading and the wine aged for ten months in American oak barrels. It has a roasted and salty nose (roasted corn?), smoked bacon and a faint reductive note with some green tones. The palate is dominated by some tannins with a slightly herbal character (young vines?) ending quite dry. 6,600 bottles were produced.

The 2009 Syrah spent 10 months in oak. Game, smoke, leather, and blueberry are some of the elements displayed by this structured offering. Full-bodied, dense, and built to last, it will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2019. Although it was only founded eight years ago, Pagos del Moncayo works exclusively with fruit over 80 years of age. Having just made my first trip to Campo de Borja in January, 2011, I can now see what makes that possible. It is a place that seemingly dropped off the planet nearly a century ago (after the vines were planted) and has seemingly only just been rediscovered in the past 10 years. Here old-vine Garnacha is King with bush vines that look like small trees planted on stony soil similar to, dare I say it, parts of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Importer: Axial Wines USA; www.axialvinos.com

The 2008 Syrah spent 10 months in barrel. Opaque purple-colored, it offers up an already complex bouquet of earth notes, underbrush, game, smoked meat, and blue fruits. Layered, round, spicy, and well-balanced, it has the structure to evolve for 1-2 years and will offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2020. Pagos del Moncayo’s new releases are all outstanding. Importer: Axial Wines USA; www.axialvinos.com

The 2007 Syrah exhibits a sexy bouquet of smoked meat, game, blueberry, and leather. Opulent in the mouth, it has layers of savory, earthy blueberry fruit, outstanding depth, enough silky tannin to evolve for 2-3 years, and a lengthy, pure finish. Enjoy it from 2010 to 2018. Although it was founded only six years ago, Pagos del Moncayo works exclusively with vines over 80 years of age. Current offerings include two outstanding values that are noted in Issue 181. Importer: Axial Wines USA; www.axialvinos.com

The 2006 Syrah is deeply colored, bordering on black. The nose is pure blueberry compote followed by a thick, dense, rich wine which will only be enjoyed by hedonists. Layered, full-flavored, and exceptionally long in the finish, this wine is all about pleasure. It can be drunk now but should last for well over a decade. Campo de Borja, located in the northwest province of Zaragoza, 200 miles west of Barcelona, has a winemaking tradition dating back to the 12th century. However, the D.O. dates only to 1980. Bodegas Pagos del Moncayo, owned by the Aibar family, has played a significant role in the rebirth of this once forgotten region. Although it is only 6 years of age, the estate works exclusively with vines in excess of 80 years. Importer: Axial Wines USA; www.axialvinos.com