The 2009 Syrah spent 10 months in oak. Game, smoke, leather, and blueberry are some of the elements displayed by this structured offering. Full-bodied, dense, and built to last, it will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2019. Although it was only founded eight years ago, Pagos del Moncayo works exclusively with fruit over 80 years of age. Having just made my first trip to Campo de Borja in January, 2011, I can now see what makes that possible. It is a place that seemingly dropped off the planet nearly a century ago (after the vines were planted) and has seemingly only just been rediscovered in the past 10 years. Here old-vine Garnacha is King with bush vines that look like small trees planted on stony soil similar to, dare I say it, parts of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Importer: Axial Wines USA; www.axialvinos.com