Sometimes concept exceeds the wine itself, and this may be a case in point. The blend is odd, and the fact that each grape comes from a different part of Spain is potentially more odd. As for the wine, it has a nice perfume to it, courtesy of the Rhone varieties in the mix. And while the cherry/berry fruit is forward, it’s maybe too sweet and basic in terms of length, structure and mouthfeel. Still, it’s worth a try for the experimental tasters out there. ——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 85