Maison Bertrand Ambroise Rue de Chaux, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, France

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Last tasted by me in barrel and prior to racking, the Ambroise 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Rue de Chaux displays high-toned, borderline volatile distilled berry intensity allied to cassis bonbons and prunes. Resin and salt add almost stridently pungent and saliva-inducing savor to a fruit impression uncommonly ripe for its vintage. Strong tannin from the combined effect of skins and new wood renders what juiciness and invigoration is present in the undeniably long finish here very much needed. But are they enough? I’d want to revisit this from bottle not to mention after its first several years there to scrutinize its degree of success and its potential. Ambroise concurs that – at the moment (late last winter) – it’s hard to get at and dominated by its tannins and wood. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083