If you like unfined, unfiltered, lusty, full-bodied, muscular Pinot Noirs from the Cote de Nuits, Ambroise is your man. I discovered this producer while researching my Burgundy book and I am delighted to see how successful he has become, not only in America, but also in the Burgundy circles of Europe. Ambroise makes some of the most extracted, deeply colored wines of Burgundy, but they are not meant to be sipped while sitting pool side. These are super-endowed, tannic "vins de garde" that will repay cellaring. Slightly softer and more elegant, the 1991 Nuits St.-Georges-Rue de Chaux is more precocious than Les Vaucrains. Deep ruby/purple-colored, with a moderately intense bouquet of black fruits and flowers, this supple, graceful wine will provide a delicious, expansive mouthful of Pinot Noir over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.
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