A blend of Rucignola, Malvasia delle Lipari and Catarratto, the Barone di Villagrande 2019 Salina Bianco is aromatic and floral from the start. The bouquet revs up quickly and is quite beautiful, with plenty of star jasmine and peach blossom. The texture is lean, but the wine also manages a broad and rich mouthfeel that adds dimension and importance to this wine. You might pair it with shellfish or crab cakes, for example. Another benefit is that it brings you close to the seashore, with a lingering salinity and marine breeze. Ultimately, this wine plays strong cards in the mouth.

This wine is not from Etna but is from Barone di Villagrande's vineyard on the small island of Salina in the Aeolian Archipelago. The 2018 Salina Bianco (packaged in a tall Riesling bottle) is a blend of Rucignola, Malvasia delle Lipari and Catarratto, three indigenous grapes from Sicily. The bouquet is not particularly aromatic, but it does deliver neutral aromas of white flower, peach and honeydew melon. There's more action in the mouth, where the wine offers contrasting acidity or brightness, with some chewy or creamy sweetness as well. A mere 1,300 bottles were made.

Packaged in a long, tall bottle, the 2017 Salina Bianco is a blend of 34% Rucignola, 33% Malvasia delle Lipari and 33% Catarratto. The aromas here are downplayed, showing medium intensity. You get citrus, pear and peach. Only 1,300 bottles were produced.

From Barone di Villagrande's property on the beautiful island of Salina, the 2016 Salina Bianco is a blend of Catarratto, Rucignola and Malvasia delle Lipari. This white wine is a world apart from the estate's wines made on Etna. There is a Mediterranean healthiness and fleshiness here that gives the wine good staying power. Perhaps it shows less vertical depth, but its does offer a very silky and fine texture with elegant tones of white peach and passion fruit.

Made with a blend of Malvasia delle Lipari, Catarratto and Rucignola, the 2015 Salina Bianco is a simple and slightly muted white wine to drink with fried calamari or marinated sardines. The wine shows marine-inspired aromas of crushed seashells and salty mineral. There is little dimension or complexity, but this simple wine drinks with ease, nonetheless.