From a vineyard that borders the source of Aubert's Lauren bottling, there are 1,200 cases of the 2021 Chardonnay CIX Estate. Matured in 75% new French oak, this review is based on a tank sample awaiting bottling. Planted to a Montrachet selection in 2008, there's just a hint of fumé character, those smoky, mocha notes accenting ripe peaches and bright lime pith. It's characteristically full-bodied, generous, creamy and lush, yet with enough acidity to keep it clean and fresh on the finish.

Another terrific year for this bottling, the 2020 Chardonnay CIX Estate—from Montrachet-selection budwood on vines planted in 2008, and matured in 75% new French oak—is lightly toasty, then tropical, with yellow peach, possibly even mango notes, balanced by bright, lime-like acids. It's full-bodied, creamy and rich, yet not heavy at all, with great energy and lift on the finish.

A barrel sample, the 2019 Chardonnay CIX Estate comes bounding out of the glass with grapefruit, green mango and orange peel notes backed up by wafts of talc, chopped nuts and a lifted, aromatic, floral perfume. It is full-bodied and intensely flavored in the mouth with a lively backbone cutting through the taut, dense citrus and tropical fruit flavors, finishing long and fragrant.