The 2011 Chardonnay CIX Vineyard is the least expressive of these single-vineyard wines. Bright floral notes meld into various shades of citrus. There is plenty of polish, but the CIX doesn’t have anywhere near the level of complexity and/or nuance of the best wines in the range. Today, the CIX appears to still be somewhat of a work in progress relative to the high level that is customary throughout the rest of the range. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Mark Aubert has a brand new tasting room that is intimate and clubby. By the time I got to Aubert, I had tasted most of the Sonoma reference points. With that as a backdrop, these wines stood out for their sheer pedigrees. This is a world-class operation in every way. Because of the late, cool year, Aubert’s 2011 Chardonnays are a bit brighter and more focused than is the norm. In other words, the wines are deeply marked by the signatures of the year. Interestingly, that is not the case with the Pinots, which are pretty much in line with the juicy, generous style Aubert fans have become accustomed to. In contrast to the Chardonnay harvest, in 2011, there were no declassified Pinot lots. One of the developments at Aubert over the last few years is an increased focus on estate vineyards. As part of that trend, readers will see several additions to the range, while Aubert has decided to discontinue his Reuling Chardonnay. Tel. (707) 963-4569