The stylish, medium-bodied, crisp, ripe 2005 Vermentino di Sardegna was given partial malolactic and was fermented and aged in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It offers wonderful notes of beeswax, lemon, honey, orange and apple blossoms. Fresh and lively, but intense (not an easy combination to achieve), it should be enjoyed over the next year for its exuberant youthfulness. One of my favorite estates from Sardinia, Argiolas, located just north of Cagliari, has long promoted the island’s indigenous varietals, including Nuragus and Vermentino for their whites, and such red grapes as Cannonau, Monica, Carignano, and Bovale Sardo. I strongly urge readers to check out these fabulous wine values as they are every bit as good as these enthusiastic notes suggest. Just one caveat: Drink the whites within a year of release, and the reds within several. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.

The relatively dry, exotic, lemony-scented 1998 Vermentino exhibits fresh, ripe fruit as well as a medium-bodied, dry finish. This Vermentino, a varietal known as Rolle in southern France, is fermented at low temperatures and bottled early to preserve its fruit. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620