The relatively dry, exotic, lemony-scented 1998 Vermentino exhibits fresh, ripe fruit as well as a medium-bodied, dry finish. This Vermentino, a varietal known as Rolle in southern France, is fermented at low temperatures and bottled early to preserve its fruit. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620