The 2002 Argiolas adds Malvasia to Vermentino to give a fresh, crisp white wine with an abundance of lemon fruit and aromatic herbs in its nose and palate. The largest private estate making quality wine in Sardinia, Argiolas received its original impetus from the counsels of Giacomo Tachis, at the time the chief oenologist of Antinori and creator of both Tignanello and Sassicaia. The line is now larger and more complete but quality, if anything, has further improved, and these are essential wines for those looking to discover what the wines and viticulture of Sardinia are all about. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This dry wine, a blend of Vermentino (Rolle in France) and Malvasia, offers exotic tropical fruit scents, plenty of personality, low acidity, an exuberant, flashy format, and a medium-bodied, long finish. This is a tasty, New World-styled offering that can be drunk over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1995 Bianco, a blend of Vermentino and a small dollop of Malvasia, is an impressive white from such a southerly, hot, arid climate. It exhibits a light to medium straw color, a fresh, aromatic, flowery, orange peel-scented nose, and surprisingly powerful, medium to full-bodied, citrusy flavors. This tank-fermented wine offers a juicy, plump mouthful of white wine with considerable character. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1993 Bianco is a modern-styled, fruity, fresh, medium-bodied wine with surprising concentration and character, as well as a dry, vibrant, pure finish. This impressively made wine should be consumed with fish or fowl over the next year. LoCascio is thrilled about the prospects for high quality wines from Sardinia, a place he claims is experiencing a profound winemaking revolution. Not only are the hillside vineyards being resurrected and replanted, but some of Italy's most influential oenologists (for example, Signor Tacchis, the winemaking architect behind Solaia and Sassicaia) are frequent visitors to this island.