The 1995 Bianco, a blend of Vermentino and a small dollop of Malvasia, is an impressive white from such a southerly, hot, arid climate. It exhibits a light to medium straw color, a fresh, aromatic, flowery, orange peel-scented nose, and surprisingly powerful, medium to full-bodied, citrusy flavors. This tank-fermented wine offers a juicy, plump mouthful of white wine with considerable character. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620