Arcadian’s 2007 Pinot Noir Pisoni shows fabulous depth. Layers of fruit flesh out on a broad-shouldered structure, easily filling out the wine’s frame. Attractive spiced notes develop in the glass as this fleshy, radiant Pinot flows through to the generous, inviting finish. The warmth of this well-known site in the Santa Lucia Highlands comes through beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Joe Davis is straightforward, frank and tells it like it is, or at least as he sees it. Davis’s time in Burgundy, and in particular the year he spent at Dujac in 1994/1995, remains a deeply formative experience. One of the many unique attributes of the Arcadian wines is that they are released with several years of bottle age, as opposed to the majority of Central Coast wines, which are released as soon as they are bottled. The Arcadian Pinots and Syrahs are made with a high percentage of stems, typically in the 80-100% range. Tel. (805) 737-3900; www.arcadianwinery.com

Their 2004 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard is the finest offering I have yet tasted from this winery, which seems to often prefer underripe grapes and tart acids rather than full-flavored development. A stylistic choice no doubt, but one that is hard to justify given the fruit ripeness and character that can be achieved in California. The 2004 Pisoni Vineyard exhibits beautiful notes of forest floor, flowers, black cherries, and black currants. Broad and savory with excellent balance, good acidity, and sweet tannin in the long finish, it should drink well for 5-7 years.- Tel. (805) 688-1876; Fax (805) 686-5501

In total contrast, the 2003 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard reveals a distinctive earthiness, moderate herbaceousness, a lean, austere character, a stemmy, underbrush note, and a clipped, desiccated finish. While the 2004 is a wine for hedonists, the 2003 is a wine for masochists. Tel. (805) 688-1876; Fax (805) 686-5501

One of Monterey’s most distinctive vineyards is the grand cru-like Pisoni Vineyard, which produces an unmistakable, distinctive wine from a suitcase clone that came from Burgundy’s most famous vineyard. The 2001 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard exhibits a slightly darker ruby hue than the 2002, along with hints of sassafras, herbs, and earth. The acidity is tart, but otherwise the wine is nicely constructed. While it has more to it than the 2002, there is not a lot there. It does not reveal much Pisoni Vineyard character. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (805) 688-1876