Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Chitry, Burgundy, France

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The 2015 Bourgogne Chitry comes from vines located in Chitry. It has a well-defined bouquet with scents of pressed white flowers filtering through the white peach and clementine aromas, a subtle granite scent in the background. The palate is extremely well balanced with orange pith and a touch of apricot on the entry. This feels very fresh in the mouth, and like the Plantation 1902, there is a riveting seam of salinity that perks up the senses toward the latter half. This comes highly recommended.

The 2014 Bourgogne Chitry, which comes from vines around 20-years-old in this tiny 60-hectare appéllation, has a very fine bouquet with light granitic scents interpolating the citrus fruit, a little austere at the moment but nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp and taut with a dab of ginger that sparkles on the finish. Enjoy this over the next 4-6 years.

The 2013 Bourgogne Chitry was aged in barrels that are between 7 and 10 years old. It has a precise nose, very pure with orange rind, nectarine and jasmine - nicely focused and gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced, fresh on the entry with notes of citrus peel, lime and orange rind. Not long, but full of vigor and energy, this is a delicious Bourgogne to drink over the next 3 to 4 years.

Tasted from a new demi-muid, the 2012 Bourgogne Chitry exhibits a bit of extraneous lanolin and resin but the contents of its older counterparts were still in alcoholic fermentation when I visited the De Moors in June. Peony-like, musky and sweet floral overtones along with predictable fusil and chalk notes emerge on the nose and suffuse the lees-enriched yet bright palate. There is no oak-interference in the juicy finish, whose hints of mint and white pepper add both cooling and stimulating satisfaction. Look for fine showings through at least 2016. High up in Courgis, Alice and Olivier De Moor were not impacted by 2012 frost, though that scarcely means that their vintage was unproblematic. Oidium and mildew required repeated treatments and the harvest a certain selectivity, but in the end yields were nearly equal to those of 2011 - and consequently, alcohol levels no higher - while quality was, as usual for them but increasingly so as years go by, impressively over-achieving by any standards, let alone those of appellation. (A potentially impressive but already 14% alcohol 2012 Saint-Bris was too far-removed from completing its fermentation at the time of my visit to more fully assess.) The 2012 harvest did not begin here until the last days of September, but what hung was, by the De Moors- testimony, almost entirely healthy fruit. With the exception of a Saint Bris whose virtues are largely vitiated by its high volatility - and there are sometimes wines that get away, given their high-risk, hands-off cellar approach - the De Moors' 2011s are brashly, very distinctively, and in a couple of instances memorably delicious. These were, for the most part, not bottled until late last or early this year. A continued investment is being made here, incidentally, in new demi-muids - of Austrian as well as French origin - that seem to suit the De Moors' intentions for Chablis, Bourgogne Chitry and old vines Aligote. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

A tart, cider-like mingling of Rainier cherry, lemon and crabapple pungently and incisively laced with mustard and coriander seeds as well as radish renders the De Moor 2011 Bourgogne Chitry strikingly intense while guaranteeing that it won't be everybody's cup of Chardonnay. An unusual combination of textural oiliness with levity and refreshing brightness prepares the way for a piquant, invigorating, forcefully-intense finish in which citrus rinds add to the aforementioned seeds and radish. Elegant this isn't. But it will prove fascinatingly versatile at table over at least the next 3-4 years, and those who like it are apt to think that I was stingy in my score. High up in Courgis, Alice and Olivier De Moor were not impacted by 2012 frost, though that scarcely means that their vintage was unproblematic. Oidium and mildew required repeated treatments and the harvest a certain selectivity, but in the end yields were nearly equal to those of 2011 - and consequently, alcohol levels no higher - while quality was, as usual for them but increasingly so as years go by, impressively over-achieving by any standards, let alone those of appellation. (A potentially impressive but already 14% alcohol 2012 Saint-Bris was too far-removed from completing its fermentation at the time of my visit to more fully assess.) The 2012 harvest did not begin here until the last days of September, but what hung was, by the De Moors- testimony, almost entirely healthy fruit. With the exception of a Saint Bris whose virtues are largely vitiated by its high volatility - and there are sometimes wines that get away, given their high-risk, hands-off cellar approach - the De Moors' 2011s are brashly, very distinctively, and in a couple of instances memorably delicious. These were, for the most part, not bottled until late last or early this year. A continued investment is being made here, incidentally, in new demi-muids - of Austrian as well as French origin - that seem to suit the De Moors' intentions for Chablis, Bourgogne Chitry and old vines Aligote. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191