Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Chitry, Burgundy, France

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The De Moors’ 2008 Bourgogne Chitry offers an example of the tiny-berried concentration and high extract of the vintage manifesting itself in part as fairly pronounced bitterness. Toasted grains, lemon pips, black tea, salt and chalk are all suggested on a firm palate, leading to a focused, bright, but almost severe finish. Its bitterness might get the better of this, and I would be watchful in cellaring any. The high acids and sheer concentration of Alice and Olivier De Moor’s 2008 raw material came close to getting the better of a couple of their wines, making for a collection qualitatively more heterogeneous than usual, but culminating in the best Chablis I can recall from this address (which I have been visiting off and on for more than 15 years). Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191