The 2009 Bourgogne Chitry is a young-vines bottling that bristles with personality and class from start to finish. All of the elements come together beautifully on the creamy, expansive finish. This understated, impeccably polished Bourgogne is another overachiever. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. My visit to this tiny estate in Courgis was a highlight of my recent stay in Chablis. These fabulous wines from Olivier and Alice de Moor are all the more remarkable because the de Moors own no premier or grand cru land. Through diligent, painstaking work Alice and Oliver de Moor have elevated their wines well above their humble pedigrees, showing just how much can be done when the focus is purely on growing the best fruit possible. Biodynamic farming and artisan winemaking are the rule here. The wines are aged 10-12 months in oak, see one racking and are bottled with no fining or filtration. Simply put, these are some of the most pure, striking wines readers will come across in Chablis, where so many wines are quite industrial. I was blown away by what I tasted. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fine, handcrafted wines. The world could use a few more vignerons like the de Moors. I have listed the wines from Le Vendangeur Masque, the de Moor’s negociant line, separately. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191