Also soft and voluptuously textured, the 2012 Condrieu Lys de Volan also exhibits some toasty nuances in its full-bodied, rich and decadent profile. Ripe apricots, honeyed peaches, white flowers, lychee nut and loads of spice emerge from this beauty, and it has no hard edges, moderate acidity and solid length on the finish. It too should be enjoyed over the coming couple of years. No known importer.

To my mind, 2010 is the finest vintage for Condrieu since 2001. The 2010 Condrieu Lys de Volan reveals slightly more minerality and floral notes in its full-bodied, unctuous texture, terrific freshness and laser-like definition. I have always enjoyed Alain Paret's concentrated, full-bodied St.-Josephs, which never shortchange on richness, intensity or aging potential. All three of these 2009s will benefit from another 2-3 years of cellaring, which is somewhat unusual for this vintage. They possess major extraction, full-bodied personalities and plenty of density and richness. No known importer.

One of the appellation’s most compelling wines is Alain Paret’s Condrieu Lys du Volan. The 2001 (only 3,500 bottles produced from low yields of 20-25 hectoliters per hectare) is truly great stuff. Despite aging in 80% new oak casks, the wood is totally absorbed by the wine’s wealth of fruit and glycerin. Aged on its lees with no racking before being bottled, it exhibits a tremendously uplifted bouquet of orange marmalade, lychee nuts, honeysuckle, and citrus oils. Extremely perfumed, rich, and full-bodied, with great purity, texture, and length, this sensational Condrieu will age for 3-4 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2000 Condrieu Lys du Volan reveals no evidence of its 100% new oak aging. Produced from tiny yields from a hillside vineyard planted in schist, it possesses wonderful aromatics, a concentrated, liquid minerality, and restrained notes of peach and apricot jam intermixed with honeysuckle. This glorious, textured, layered, well-balanced 2000 Condrieu will keep for 3-4 years. It is a worthy rival to the appellation's finest wine, Guigal's Condrieu La Doriane. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083