The 2007 Zinfandel High Wire Vineyard exhibits more blue and black fruit characteristics along with notions of damp earth and spice, and a full-bodied, brilliant display of briery black fruits. This spicy, peppery Zinfandel is refreshing, full-bodied, and a total delight to drink. Drink this hedonistic effort over the next 5-6 years. After two challenging vintages for Zinfandel (2005 and 2006), 2007 offers considerable promise for a return to the beautiful ripe fruit and seductive power of Zinfandel. Available through VinLux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4614; Fax (866) 853-1707

The vineyard is in Fulton, a cool part of the southeastern valley heavily influenced by fog, and the vines are about 100 years old. This is great, classic Zinfandel. It should be in a museum. Despite high alcohol, it has a silky, Pinot-esque suppleness, balanced with crisp acids, and is profoundly rich in Zinny flavor. Currants, mushu plum sauce, anise, crushed black pepper, dark chocolate and rich Asian spices last forever on the finish. ——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 96