The 2008 Pinot Noir Cherry Grove Vineyard comes from a site just north of Gaston. It spent 9 months in 50% new oak followed by another 9 months in neutral barrels. A brooding bouquet of blue and black fruits, balsam wood, Asian spices, and floral aromas titillate the nose. In the glass it exhibits layered, rich, succulent fruit and enough fine-grained tannin to sustain an additional 3-4 years of cellaring. This pleasure-bent effort will be at its best from 2014 to 2023. Boedecker Cellars is the winery of husband/wife team Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker. The wines are all produced from contracted fruit, fermented with native yeasts, aged for 9 months in a percentage of new oak, and then racked into neutral oak for additional aging. The wines are bottled in Stelvin screw caps in their new winery in an industrial section of Portland. Many of their wines are held back for an additional year of bottle aging. Tel. (503) 288-7752; www.boedeckercellars.com

Light and fragrant, with dark berry flavors and meaty, spicy overtones, folding together neatly as the finish lingers impressively. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases made. -HS