Boasting a ripe and fruit-forward stye, the 2005 Guidalberto mirrors the warm vintage. Vines experienced vigorous growth in 2005 thanks to ample springtime rains and heated summer temperatures. Ripening was not even across the Bolgheri area and vintners had to time their harvests carefully. This wine shows an evident level of inner sweetness with bold tones of Morello cherry, mature blackberry, moist pipe tobacco and Spanish cedar. The mouthfeel is round and rich with sweet tannins at the back. It is holding well today, ten years from the harvest. I suggest drinking this wine over the next two or three years.

Guidoalberto is the “pocketbook-friendly” alternative from the same estate that makes Sassicaia. But for $60, you could ask for more. This is a chewy, succulent wine with good length on the close. The aromas are awkward in places with espresso, chocolate yogurt and a touch of cheese rind.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 87