This is their top cuvee, from 100% Dijon clones, and it’s made in a fresh, clean style without excessive oak or alcohol. There’s a good-flavored fullness in the mouth, that keeps the balance among juicy, sweet fruit, toasty barrel and evenhanded acid. This is the rare Oregon Chardonnay that will continue to improve over several years. ——P.G.(2/1/2002)—— 89