Another lovely effort is the 2007 Pinot Noir Freestone Vineyard Quarter Moon. Notes of raspberries, black cherries, underbrush, forest floor, and spice are found in this wine along with excellent density, medium to full body, and excellent acidity as well as equilibrium. It should easily last for a decade. The Freestone Vineyard, a 100-acre, cool climate site planted on the Sonoma Coast by Joseph Phelps, is finally coming into production, offering consumers a bevy of different Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. There are three Chardonnay offerings, all of which emphasize the minerality and citrusy characteristics of this varietal with little intrusive oak, despite the fact that they are barrel-fermented and aged primarily in new French oak. The Cabernet Sauvignon program consists of three wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon, their famous proprietary red wine called Insignia, and their single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the western hillsides of Oakville, called Backus. The regular Cabernet is a solidly made, reliable effort usually comprised of about 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot, and occasionally Malbec. The single vineyard offering comes from Oakville’s Backus Vineyard. There are typically 1,500-2,500 cases produced from this biodynamically farmed vineyard.Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

There’s a bubble-gummy, almost Beaujolais quality to this Pinot, which spent 15 months in 3/4 new French oak. It’s rude now, with oaky, grapey flavors of black raspberry marmalade and Dr. Pepper cola. While it’s dry and crisp and interesting, it’s awkward. Is it an ager? Here’s where crystal balls are required. Try between 2011–2013.——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 90