The flagship 2007 Culmen Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano, hand-picked from selected 40- to 60-year-old vines from the “Pago El Rincon” parcel. Malolactic takes place in new Allier French oak and it is aged for 20 months in new French oak barrel. Having admired Bodegas Lan’s portfolio, I must confess that the aromatics on the Culmen are disappointing because the fruit is subjugated by the oak regime. The palate does not put a foot wrong with succulent dark cherries, cassis and a touch of cedar, although for this writer, it is an example of an over-polished wine that has less to say and is less evocative than either the Reserva or Gran Reserva. I am sure bottle age with benefit this wine. Drink 2015-2025.
Bodegas Lan was established in 1972 and after a number of itinerant owners, they settled with an investment group, Mercapital, in 2002. Their winery is based in the town of Fuenmayor in Rioja Alta. They own 70 hectares of vineyard, the remainder out-sourced and the wine is raised in a combination of different oak regimes in their barrel cellar that can accommodate some 25,000 barrels. I was impressed by the consistency of these wines that are well-crafted and with a propensity to age.
Importer: Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; tel. (703) 771-1477
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