Sadly, there are only 100 or so cases of the 2004 Cote Rotie Lancement. This wine is pure and reveals gorgeous floral, black cherry, and raspberry notes intermixed with some darker fruits in the mouth. It is medium-bodied, has zesty acidity, sweet tannin, and beautiful elegance and length. This is a lovely wine that should drink well for up to a decade. The Ogiers are a wonderful family, and it’s gratifying to see the extraordinary quality of wine that continues to emerge from them. The son Stephane has taken over fully from his dad, who seems to be inching into full retirement, and continues to push the estate to higher and higher levels of quality.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Wonderfully floral and spicy on the nose, with hints of anise that add nuance to the layers of raspberry fruit. Stephane Ogier claims he adores the 2004 vintage, and with wines like this, why shouldn’t he? This finishes lush and long, and although already approachable, should age effortlessly through at least 2015.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 92