The Dutton-Goldfield style is to emphasize acidity and minerality, then to lavish winemaker interventions in the form of oak and lees. This is a Chablisian wine, if you will, dry and crisp, with complex flavors ranging from lemons and cinnamon to gun metal and pineapples. It’s very elegant and food-friendly. ——S.H.(12/15/2005)—— 92