Pours dark as a graveyard, and one whiff tells you it’s lavishly oaked in fine, charred barrels. You have to taste it to find what the vineyard brings, namely, black cherry fruit. Then those mountain tannins kick in, and wham! Everything stops. An obvious cellar candidate through 2006, when you try again.——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 89
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